Our Wine&Siena 2022 between Timorasso and Il Borro

Our Wine&Siena 2022 between Timorasso and Il Borro

Di Elsa Leandri

Wine&Siena 2022 con Helmuth Köcher e Massimo Pastura della Cantina Cascina La Ghersa
Siena between 12 and 14 March 2022 welcomed Wine & Siena into its historic centre for the seventh time. The location chosen for the food and wine tastings by Helmuth Köcher, patron of the Merano WineFestival, and Stefano Bernardini, president of Confcommercio Siena, was, as in 2020, the celebrated Palazzo Squarcialupi at Santa Maria della Scala, where 129 producers had the opportunity to present their products to enthusiasts and trade operators.

Parallel activities to the tasting counters were the WineHunter Talks on the one hand and the Masterclasses on the other.

 Masterclass di Timorasso Wine&Siena 2022 con Helmuth Köcher Patron del Merano Wine Festival
Timorasso Masterclass

If there are many grapes that can be defined as 'reds dressed in white', Massimo Pastura of Cascina La Ghersa did not hesitate to tell us about his concept during the 'Timorasso' Masterclass.

Massimo, a lover of Piedmont's indigenous grape varieties, has dedicated his entire activity in the company to enhancing the identity of his region. Alongside Barbera, he could not fail to pay attention to one of the area's most representative vines, Timorasso, and it was in 2006 that he began, under the guidance of his friend-colleague Walter Massa, his work with this grape when only 13 producers and 26 hectares were involved.
Masterclass by Massimo Pastura Wine&Siena 2022 Cascina La Ghersa

A vine that in the pre-phylloxera era competed with Cortese for the name of the most cultivated vine in the border area between Piedmont and Lombardy, it found itself completely abandoned in the 1950s and 1960s when the demands for high production and large volumes had practically marginalised it, favouring instead the cultivation of more productive vines. Now, fortunately, it is beginning to have its revenge, so much so that it now has 200 hectares planted and even boasts the name 'white Barolo'.

Massimo Pastura's vineyards are in the province of Alessandria, a few kilometres from Tortona, with an altitude difference of between 300m a.s.l. and 550m a.s.l. m where there is the influence of three completely different climates: the Mediterranean climate, which pushes from the south along the Scrivia river, cold winds that descend from the Ligurian Apennines, which at the same time defend the area, and the influence of the Po Valley, with its continental climate offer a peculiarity to this area, so much so that, absurdly, going southwards, towards the Apennines, the climate becomes more rigid. The presence of high day/night temperature excursions are such as to favour a noble growth of the olfactory heritage of the grapes.

Five different vintages were offered for tasting: three vintages for Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Sivoy and two vintages for Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Riserva Timian. The former is cultivated at 300m a.s.l. where there are sandstone marls from the Tortonian era and is aged for 10 months, the latter represents a cru and is cultivated at about 500m a.s.l. with a mixed clay-loam soil with the presence of limestone and is aged for 21 months, as required by the specifications.

Derthona Colli Tortonesi Timorasso DOC Sivoy 2018
Derthona Colli Tortonesi Timorasso DOC Sivoy 2018 Wine&Siena 2022 Winery Cascina La Ghersa Massimo Pastura 

L'intensità cromatica dorata ci parla di agrumi, di scorza di pompelmo giallo e di fiori gialli come la ginestra e la mimosa con una nota minerale di pietra bagnata. In bocca ottima acidità che ci promette una lunga longevità.

Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Sivoy 2015
Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Sivoy 2015 Wine&Siena 2022 Cantina Cascina La Ghersa Massimo Pastura 

The golden colour already becomes warmer, the nose is initially more 'timid' on the tertiary (beeswax) and opens on a citrus and floral fruitiness. Finally, hints of hay and flint can be perceived. A hot vintage that required an early harvest in order to have a more impactful alcoholic perception that masks the acidity.

Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Sivoy 2014

Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Sivoy 2014 Wine&Siena 2022 Cantina Cascina La Ghersa Massimo Pastura
Elegantly broad olfactory range: candied citron, kumquat, orange peel, carob, officinal herbs follow one another and the whole is enriched by hints of honey and hydrocarbons. Excellent freshness and tastiness.

Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Riserva Timian 2010
Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Riserva Timian 2010 Wine&Siena 2022 Cantina Cascina La Ghersa Massimo Pastura

As the colour turns a brilliant golden, the nose shifts to sweet, yellow-fleshed fruit, peach in syrup, medlar, mirabella, seasoned with honey and echoes of pastry. Still lively acidity and high sapidity.
Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Riserva Timian 2006
Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Riserva Timian 2006 Wine&Siena 2022 Cantina Cascina La Ghersa Massimo Pastura

The last wine tasted takes us back to Massimo's beginnings with this grape variety. The nose is caressed by acacia honey that becomes, together with hydrocarbons, the main protagonists on a fruity bouquet. Although the acidity and savouriness continue to be present there is a slight tannicity that completes and elegantly satisfies the sip.

Verticale with Il Borro" Masterclass

Attending the tasting was Salvatore Ferragamo in person.

And to think that Il Borro was the area in Valdarno where the Ferragamo family used to go hunting. Bam. Lightning struck!

In 1993, the estate was bought by Ferruccio Ferragamo and after careful studies of the land, it was decided to plant vines. At the same time, the hamlet was completely renovated so as to offer a very elegant accommodation facility as well as the production of olive oil, wine and vegetables, which since 2015 have married an organic regime.

Among the various labels that the estate produces, the tasting focused on the estate's emblematic bottle, "Il Borro" Toscana IGT, whose first production dates back to 1999, when it was a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Petit Verdot, the latter of which remained in the blend until 2010.

Five vintages of Il Borro Toscana IGT will be tasted: 2018, 2017, 2008, 2004 and 1999.

Il Borro Toscana IGT 2018

Degustazione Il Borro al Wine&Siena 2022 

Ruby red. Cherry, plum, black pepper, roasted pepper and light empyreumatic notes are the protagonists of this sip with beautiful freshness and tannicity.

Il Borro Toscana IGT 2017

Lively ruby red. The fruit turns into jam and the vegetal part becomes more delicate, sweet notes of vanilla.
The impact in the mouth is softer, the tannin smooth. Long persistence with hints of powder.

Il Borro Toscana IGT 2008

Deep ruby red. The incipit of plum jam gives way to a dehydrated apricot. Chocolate finish. Excellent freshness supported by a clean, well-integrated tannic note.

Il Borro Toscana IGT 2004

(Our personal coup de cœur !) Floral pot pourri, ripe red fruit and tertiary notes that gradually reveal themselves: cloves, cinnamon, chocolate with a balsamic note, almost reminiscent of an after eight. Continuous attractiveness.

Elegant and velvety tannin with a freshness that lingers. High persistence with an orange aftertaste.

Il Borro Toscana IGT 1999

First vintage produced.

Ruby colour with orange reflections. The nose becomes darker, offering suggestive notes of undergrowth, humus, mushroom, cocoa, cinnamon, vanilla. Silky mouthfeel that caresses the palate, offering a mentholated finish.
Calici degustazione Il Borro Ferragamo Wine&Siena 2022 

Beautiful verticals in an exceptional room that will remain etched in our hearts, ready to welcome those of the next Wine and Siena.

By Elsa Leandri
Elsa Leandri author of the article: Our Wine&Siena 2022 between Timorasso and Il Borro, is a sommelier, blogger and wine expert.