GIOIA DEL COLLE: GENESIS AND FUTURE OF PRIMITIVO
In the cradle of primitivo, where these grapes have found ancient cures and grafted on centuries-old traditions, the Armònja Agricultural Company is implementing a modern project to enhance the vine without deviating from the groove of a never-ending tradition.
The 'Ora et Labora' Rule of the Benedictine monks and the testimonies of dedication and good oenological practices of the Basilian hermits are founding and indisputable historical traces that testify to the ancient genesis of the valorisation of Primitivo in the Gioia del Colle area. It was the Gioia wine-growers themselves who, with insight and determination, in the first decades of the 19th century, defined the boundaries and maps of their agricultural investments, handing them over at the same time to the cultivation of primitivo grapes, of which they can boast of being the historic Italian cradle.
Breeding Alberello Agricola Armònja Gioia Del Colle Primitivo |
The value of the grapes and consequently of the wine reached such high levels that it constituted an 'economic' value included in the dowry of Countess Sabini di Altamura: a treasure chest of precious vine shoots was in fact an integral part of the contract of her noble wedding to Don Tommaso, squire of Manduria, and sealed the 'migration' of Primitivo from the area of Gioia del Colle to Manduria and thus the birth of today's Primitivo di Manduria. Later still, the genetic correspondence with Californian Zinfandel was confirmed.
Agricola Armònja Gioia Del Colle Primitivo wines |
The pedoclimatic environment and the vine
Today, Primitivo di Gioia del Colle is cultivated in what is known as the Murgia di Sud-Est, or Murgia Barese, an extensive karst plateau, which reaches about 350 metres above sea level, enriched by clayey components: a sort of quadrilateral that stretches obliquely into the interior of the province of Bari towards north-eastern Basilicata. On this red soil rich in limestone, amidst outcrops of rock that force the roots of the vines to seek their way, what was called 'primativo' at the end of the 18th century is cultivated, today's primitivo, a robust variety characterised by late flowering and early ripening, able to avoid any adverse weather conditions associated with spring and autumn.
The traditional training system is the Apulian alberello, today increasingly flanked by the spurred cordon. The high altitude in hours of sunshine and low rainfall contribute to the production of wines that, while expressing a high alcohol content, possess an agile and refined drinkability.
Breeding Alberello Agricola Armònja Gioia Del Colle Primitivo |
Azienda AgricolaArmònja
Very recently established, as of 2019, the company is owned by Giuseppe Latorre, who relies on the oenological advice of Benedetto Lorusso, while Vito Ferri and Vincenzo Racano work in the vineyard. The initial 3 hectares were quickly joined by others for a current property of 5 hectares, two-thirds of which are already planted with vines and the others are being completed.
https://www.agricolaarmonja.com/la-nostra-identita/
Dedicated for the time being exclusively to the production of Primitivo di Gioia del Colle, the vineyards extend in the Acquaviva delle Fonti area, right in the centre of the DOC zone, and have their beating heart in the oldest vineyard where the historical vines, bred according to the traditional Apulian alberello system, have been planted for more than 70 years. The most recent spurred cordon section of the vineyard then completes the production.
The exclusivity reserved for primitivo will soon be complemented by the vinification of a white wine from indigenous grapes, the minutolo di Gioia del Colle.
Agricola Armònja Gioia Del Colle Primitivo some wines from the winery arrived at Carol Agostini's FoodandWineAngels Agency |
https://www.agricolaarmonja.com/i-nostri-vini/
Tasting notes👄👃👀
The meteorological conditions and pedoclimatic characteristics of this hilly plateau favour an advanced ripening of the grapes, which are harvested on average towards the end of September or in the first ten days of October, with high sugar contents and consequent alcoholic strength in the wine.
There are four types of primitivo on which the company concentrates today with decidedly flattering results. In addition to the IGT Puglia Primitivo Rosato "Lamarosa" and the Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva "Terre di Monteschiavo", the IGT Puglia "Primomiglio" 2020 and the more classic Gioia del Colle DOC "Corte Sant'Elia" 2019 are both very interesting, despite their diversity, and both have the merit of preserving the varietal taste of the starting grape in the wine.
the Primitivo intensity |
Red fruit dominates both on the nose and in the mouth in Primomiglio, which has a brilliant, bright ruby colour veined with purple. Juicy and fresh with a lively and well-integrated tannic texture, it recovers a citrus note of blood orange at the end of the mouth that immediately encourages a second sip. Complex and harmonious, the Corte Sant'Elia rests on an important alcoholic power well mitigated in the drink by a precise freshness.
Primitivo excellent to go with Carol's roasted bacon ribs |
The nose is intertwined with floral tones of rose petals, hints of ripe berries, vanilla and tobacco leaves; the sip is satisfying, the tannins silky, the finish intriguing thanks to the elegant peat glaze. Both wines lead to territorial pairings with the presence of meat, particularly the Corte Sant'Elia.
In the cradle of Primitivo, where this grape variety has found ancient care and grafted centuries-old traditions, Azienda Agricola Armònja is giving life to a fascinating project. Judging from the premises, the quality of their wines will effectively contribute to drawing a modern portrait of the Primitivo di Gioia del Colle without deviating from the groove of a never-ending tradition.
Agricola Armònja Gioia Del Colle Primitivo some wines from the winery arrived at Carol Agostini's FoodandWineAngels Agency |
Apulian sapling
The 'alberello' vine training system, introduced into Italy by the Greek colonisation in the 7th century B.C., is a very ancient vine-growing practice that does not make use of a stake to support the vine. The current form, characteristic of the Bari hinterland, both plains and hills, has a 'vase' shape with a low central stump from which two or three branches branch off with very low bud loads.
https://www.agricolaarmonja.com
This results in low yields per hectare and high quality. Subject to territorial variants forced by local microclimates (e.g. the 'Pantelleria' variant or the Pantelleria variant with the vine sunken to protect it from the wind), this cultivation technique is present throughout the south, especially where water availability is scarce and work in the vineyard is carried out exclusively by hand.
Di Rosaria Benedetti
Rosaria Benedetti author of the article GIOIA DEL COLLE: GENESI E FUTURO DEL PRIMITIVO, taster, sommelier, speaker and wine expert |
Italian Version:👇👇👇👇👇
https://www.papillae.it/gioia-del-colle-genesi-e-futuro-del-primitivo/
https://www.foodandwineangels.com/
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